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| Phuket: readers' tips, recommendations and travel advice |
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This week's winning review
The temptation in Phuket is to slip in to a lazy routine of sleep, eat, drink, swim and sunbathe. And you have to succumb to a beach Thai massage or two. Indeed, this lifestyle is to be recommended as the inner towns of Phuket compare less well with the rest of Thailand. However, Phuket is perfectly placed in a unique and most beautiful Marine National Park, and one should take advantage of the spectacular sights of Phang Nga Bay and explore the amazing limestone islands (including the James Bond island, Ko Tapu). Opt for a tour that offers a kayaking safari of the limestone caves, lagoons and mangrove forests. Sold as suitable for all ages, do be careful as health and safety is not as rigorous as we are used to, but it certainly makes an adventure for all ages. Insist on life jackets as tides and rips can be unpredictable.
I’d also recommend a visit to the “floating” Muslim community – different in
lifestyle to the nomadic Sea Gipsy (Moken) communities which are also found
in Phuket – and also try to see a rubber plantation. More advice from readers
Forget Patong and try Kata instead; a very long, quiet beach separated from
the road by casuarina trees – perfect as the sun goes down. Have a beer at
Ratri restaurant (Kata Hill; 0066 7633 3538), it looks like a temple on the
(very steep) hill behind Kata and offers a spectacular view. The best
breakfast can be found at Larba Kata on Patak Road opposite Kata temple –
good for hot and sour omelettes (or a haircut). Big Buddha is also well
worth a visit. Inside job In Phuket we quickly discovered that hotel bar staff often knew of people that could run excursions much cheaper than those offered by tour operators – sometimes for a fifth of the price. The trips were longer as well: often we were picked up at around 9am and dropped back between 6-7pm (tour operators picked up around 10am and dropped off at 4pm). We saw more of Phuket than other people at our hotel and the full day tour cost us just £10 each. The minibuses were also very clean. Similarly, jewellery and gifts were cheaper this way.
There is a high demand for football merchandise among the locals but much of
it is counterfeit. We were told before we went to take some official
Manchester United, Liverpool and Arsenal merchandise as gifts. So we took a
few items which the reception, bar staff and chambermaids loved. Call of the gibbon Pay a visit to the Gibbon Rehabilitation Centre (www.gibbonproject.org) in the north of Phuket. It’s set in a national park and there’s also the Bang Pae waterfall a short walk away. See the rescued gibbons swinging in the cages and read the numerous success stories of those that have been released back into the wild. It’s a great opportunity to see gibbons, which normally live high in the tree tops and are rarely seen. It’s free to enter but there is a charge to enter the national park (around £5).
Many people visit Phang Nga Bay by organised trip. However, the best way to
see enjoy the stunning limestone karst scenery is to drive to Phang Nga Bay
and charter your own long-tail boat. Another world Within easy access, on a short crossing by speed boat from Phuket, Koh Yao Yai is less than half an hour from Phuket – but a it might as well be a world away. It is surprisingly off the beaten track and still unspoilt by too much tourism. A delight to visit and explore, with its dramatic scenery and deserted beaches, it is located in the heart of Phang Nga Bay and is well known for its sheer limestone cliffs that jut vertically from the emerald green water. We stayed at the Koh Yao Yai Village (584555; www.kohyaoyaivillage.com), one of the two high-standard resorts of the island. The resort features large bungalows decorated in Thai folk art. The attention to detail in the rooms is remarkable, from the outdoor living area to the amenities and handmade wooden buffaloes produced by local islanders. The huge infinity pool has breathtaking views overlooking the Andaman Sea and struck us as particularly beautiful.
The “Yao Yai Island Exploring” excursion by long-tail boat ought not to be
missed. On the mat I spent very happy five days at the Karuna meditation centre (www.meditate-thailand.com), near the town of Kamala.
This was an experience I’d highly recommend. It was the first time I had been
to a retreat so I didn’t know what to expect. What I got was a lovely
setting and excellent yoga tuition (three classes a day, starting with
morning yoga on the beach), use of the pool and vegetarian meals included
(though perhaps the portions could have been more generous). There were also
daily meditations sessions and some interesting lectures. Perfect pearls We really enjoyed the visit to Naka Noi Pearl Farm, where the owner will prepare the cultured oysters for demonstration, which takes about one and a half hours. You get to the island by long-tail boats, which leave from Ao Poh off Route 4027. Brian James, West Sussex Breakfast on the beach
We first went to Phuket on our honeymoon more than a decade ago. We returned
last year expecting everything to have changed but were delighted to find
that our favourite restaurant, Chez Bernard, on the beach at Patong next to
Patong Municipality Food Court, was still going strong. It serves Thai and
Western food in simple surroundings – it’s great for lunch and dinner but we
like it best for breakfast, before the crowds arrive and before it gets too
hot. Get aboard
If you’re heading out to Phi Phi Islands, forget the ferry, which is slow and
often crowded, and take a day tour on a speed boat. Not only is this a
quicker and more efficient way of getting around all of the beautiful bays
and islands, but you will feel as if you’re starring in your own Bond movie.
Our day tour, which included Monkey Beach, Phi Phi Leh, Bamboo Island and
Khai Nai Island, cost 3,100 baht (around £63) per person and was arranged
through our hotel. It was the highlight of our trip to Phuket. Paddle power
Everyone goes to Phang Nga Bay and it certainly doesn’t disappoint. But once
you’ve seen it by day, go back and visit the caves by starlight. There is a
tour you can take that takes you kayaking round the islands during the
afternoon then, after supper on the escort boat, you return to your kayaks
and paddle back to the caves. It’s quite magical under the stars and so
peaceful. You can book the tour before you travel at www.phuket-travel.com
and it costs around £80 per person. Expensive but worth it. Phuket with a bang Don’t miss Phuket’s most famous Buddhist temple, Wat Chalong, around five miles south of the city. The Grand Pagoda is particularly interesting with paintings that tell the story of the Buddha’s life. But be prepared for gunfire. It’s not really gunfire, thankfully, it’s the sound of firecrackers, which locals light to say thank you when their prayers are answered.
Of great interest to most visitors, are the statues of a local known as
grandpa Khee-lek who apparently won the lottery several times after
appealing to another statue here – Poh Than Jao Wat. Needless to say, my
wife and I made a similar appeal but without success so far – but perhaps
Poh Than Jao Wat’s powers only extend to local lotteries. Peace and quiet Well worth visiting is Koh Yao Noi, not far from Koh Yao Yai in Phang Nga Bay. This island is smaller but more populated than its big sister, with 5,000 islanders, many of them fishermen who still use traditional wicker cages and hand-knotted nets. The islanders made a decision to regulate tourism when they saw local customs being threatened on Phuket. As a result, visitors must respect local rules such as modest dress, no littering, no illegal fishing, and no alcohol or drugs. There are no big hotels – just homestays and a few low-key beach bungalows.
Cycling round the island you can glimpse unspoilt mangrove swamps, rice
fields, water buffalo and orchards of tropical fruit, where villagers hang
sheets of rubber out to dry. It’s a far cry from the hectic resorts on
Phuket. What to avoid
Hiring a tuk tuk is expensive. If you really want to, first establish how much
it’s going to cost you. Preferably hire a moped and always ask for a helmet
and go to a reputable hire company. They will always ask for a deposit and
your passport which you have to give in order to get a moped. Also when
riding the mopeds don’t drink and do wear the helmet – the police often stop
riders at random. Shark alert
Stay clear of the shark’s fin soup which you may well find in some traditional
or expensive restaurants. It doesn’t suit large-scale fishing and fishing
for it has a detrimental effect on the marine ecosystem. It’s also not that
tasty anyway. Beach blight
Miss the beach communities where the accommodation can be overpriced and the
food in the malls is less than appetising. Instead, stay in the more
aesthetically pleasing Phuket town. Send us your tips
The sender of the best entry on each destination will win a two-night stay for two, in a superior room, with breakfast, at the Halkin hotel in Belgravia, London. The destinations
Oxford The prize The prize will be awarded to the sender of the best submission on each destination. It is offered strictly according to availability and must be taken before March 31, 2012. Transfers and transport to and from London and the hotel are not included. Other terms and conditions apply. The Halkin (020 7333 1059; www.halkin.como.bz) provides the perfect sanctuary in the heart of London. Located in a quiet street close to Hyde Park Corner, the shops of Knightsbridge and Mayfair, and surrounded by the discreet charm of Belgravia, The Halkin provides an ideal base for those visiting the capital to shop, sightsee or relax. With its elegant and contemporary interiors, in which comfort is fundamental, the hotel has the feel of a home away from home. It also has a boutique size that creates an air of intimacy, with just 41 guest rooms and suites. The wonderfully innovative design, the work of Italian architects Laboratorio Associati of Milan, is clear from the moment you step into the airy lobby and glance up at the soaring atrium ceiling. The hotel is also renowned both for its five-star service and its technically sophisticated in-room services, with state-of-the-art-touch-screen consoles, on-demand movie and music selection, and complimentary WiFi access. Gourmet visitors should visit 'nahm’, the hotel’s acclaimed Thai restaurant by celebrated chef David Thompson, or The Halkin Bar to sample its new 'Flights of Wine’ menu. How to submit Email your tips and recommendations (no longer than 150 words, please) on any of the five destinations with your name, address and phone number, by April 28, 2011, to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or click on one of the links below. Trave Sea and Sun
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