Outline
An hour's drive from civilisation but just a few metres from a spectacular,
almost secret, coral paradise, Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef is enviably isolated. During
the day the indolent can watch wallaroos (a kangaroo relative) hopping
through camp while the more active can swim with turtles, sharks, rays and
countless reef fish including clownfish like the Nemo character. Whale
sharks and humpback whales also migrate off this part of the coast. Exmouth
is the nearest built up area. It's a far cry from the often crowded Great
Barrier Reef, on Australia's opposite coast.
We like:
Sal Salis is an all-inclusive, eco-friendly resort billed as "wild bush
luxury". Guests are encouraged to wash with organic soap in the rationed
water heated by the sun, as well as to use organic sun-cream to avoid
damaging the fragile living coral on the reef. Both are provided. Members of
staff double as excellent guides for activities including kayaking, snorkelling,
gorge walking and rock pooling. All of them displayed a detailed knowledge
of and respect for the breathtaking wilderness and its living things.
Not so keen:
It's very expensive. With not much change from £400 per person per night,
with a minimum two-night stay.
The rooms:
Sal Salis Ningaloo has just five double/twin tents with the option of adding
two more guests sleeping in luxury bushman's "swags" (sleeping rolls)
on the floor. The large tents are set on low decks with king-size beds. They
are comfortable and cosy in the chilly desert evenings. There is a separate
bathroom with composting toilet, a sink and a shower. The porch area has a
double hammock. You fall asleep to the sounds of crickets and waves breaking
on the distant outer reef. You wake to perfect silence.
The food and drink:
Quality local ingredients are brought in and served according to the temperature.
Cooler days can see lunch of crocodile sausages and barbecued steak. When it
rises to 35C outside the shade of the well-equipped communal deck area, it
can be smoked salmon and Greek salad. Evening meals are a highlight with
canapes served at sunset on the whale-watching deck set on a slight rise in
the ground. Mains included roast lamb with potato and leek frittata or
grilled emperor fish with Thai noodles, all accompanied by lashings of
excellent Australian wine. Service is unfussy but considerate. Breakfasts feature
muffins baked on site. A cooler box with a variety of chilled drinks is
filled and set on the beach each morning.
The other guests:
There aren't (m)any. The glory of this place is its isolation: guests rarely
number above 12 so you're unlikely to be forced to make unwelcome small talk
with mile after mile of beach to share. Meals are served and eaten
communally.
The details:
Australian carrier Skywest offers flights for the two-hour hop from Perth for
around £250, allowing splendid views of the desert and the spectacular
coastline for the entire journey. Alternatively, it's a 12-hour-plus drive
along isolated roads.
The bottom line:
An adult twin share costs around £385 per person per night (minimum two-night
stay).
Telegraph rating:
TTTT