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Mystres & Mekong is a modest colonial-style villa, opened in August 2009

Breakfast and drinks are taken in the gardens or on the terrace

Location

Central and quiet, near the Royal Palace; the riverfront is an easy walk away.

Character

A modest colonial-style villa, opened in August 2009, formerly a family home, lovingly converted into a boutique guesthouse by its French owners, who have added a second building plus a small pool. Set in rambling gardens, it feels private and intimate; staff are charming and the owners hands-on. There's a sister hotel in Siem Reap.

Rooms

The 18 rooms have been thoughtfully decorated using traditional materials and a taste for the surprising. The house's configuration – including a tower, a large covered terrace and some unlikely alcoves – means no two rooms are the same, although most have private terraces. My ''Colonie'' room had a four-poster overhung with knotted mosquito netting, gorgeous turquoise and yellow floor tiles, patterned silk throws and full-length windows. Bathrooms also feature handmade tiles.

Food

Breakfast is taken in the gardens or terrace. There's a basic drinks menu, and it was nice to be offered Cambodian tea rather than Lipton's. There's no restaurant, but plenty nearby and plans are afoot to arrange delivery.

We like

The homely style; the eccentric pieces of furniture.

Not so keen

Not great for sunbathing – the leafy garden is mostly shady.

Essentials

23 210274; www.mysteres-mekong.com; from £44, b & b.

Why Phnom Penh?

If you're visiting the temples of Angkor, don't bypass Phnom Penh – the Cambodian capital has a history both fascinating and chilling, a lively social scene and gorgeous palaces. Only in the past decade has it recovered from the Khmer Rouge years (1975-79) when a quarter of the population perished and the city was forcibly evacuated. Put aside at least half a day to visit the Museum of Genocide at Tuol Sleng Prison and the Killing Fields outside the city. For a cheerful antidote, visit the colourful Royal Palaces, join early morning aerobics in the park, marvel at the good-natured traffic mayhem and visit craft shops and markets – great for homewares such as silk and basketry. Khmer food is light, fragrant and cheap, and for a cocktail don't miss happy hour at the Foreign Correspondents' Club.

Getting there

Several Asian carriers, including budget airline Air Asia (www.airasia.com), fly from London to Phnom Penh via Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur; you can also go via Hong Kong with British Airways and a local carrier such as Dragon Air. The total journey time, excluding transit, is about 15 hours. Phnom Penh airport is 30 minutes from the centre; most hotels pick you up. Buses from Siem Reap (for the Angkor temples) take six hours; the Mekong Express ($11) is a good option, with a lavatory on board, drinks and snacks included and a halfway stop. You can also travel by boat (six hours; $35) from Siem Reap. You can walk safely in Phnom Penh by day, but take tuk-tuks after dark ($2).