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Rooms are minimally furnished, with tiled floors, bright silk cushions and the odd decoration

To the rear is a lush garden and pool, with sunloungers, cabanas and a small bar/caf

Location

On a side-street behind the Royal Palace, less than 10 minutes' walk from the riverfront. Close to shops, bars and restaurants. A good neighbourhood for a daylight stroll.

Character

A four-storey block built in 2008, the French/Cambodian-owned Blue Lime has as its signature style bare concrete and bright silk. The effect is surprisingly appealing, especially in the reception, with backlit squares of turquoise across an entire wall. The hotel is approached through sturdy gates, overseen by a 24-hour guard. To the rear is a lush garden and pool, with sunloungers, cabanas and a small bar/café. The Blue Lime is for 16-and-overs; nearby sister properties The Pavilion (more upmarket; also 16-pluses) and Kabiki (family-friendly) also have a good reputation. Computer and Wi-Fi are free.

Rooms

The 14 rooms include doubles, twins and a triple, all with air-con and fan. Each is minimally furnished, with concrete storage and beds (the mattresses are fine), tiled floor, bright silk cushions and the odd decoration, such as a woven mat on the wall. All the first to third-storey rooms have a balcony, some with great views over the Royal Palace and city.

Food

Breakfast of fruit, juice, tea/coffee and bread is taken outside by the bar/pool. You can buy drinks (wine $3; soft drink $1.50) and basic Western food ($3-$6.50) until 10pm, and numerous restaurants are nearby.

We like

The exceptional value; the friendly staff; a great base for exploring on foot.

Not so keen

The stairs to the top floor are very steep; the concrete look may not have universal appeal.

Essentials

23 222260; www.bluelime.asia; from £25 per room, b & b.

Why Phnom Penh?

If you're visiting the temples of Angkor, don't bypass Phnom Penh – the Cambodian capital has a history both fascinating and chilling, a lively social scene and gorgeous palaces. Only in the past decade has it recovered from the Khmer Rouge years (1975-79) when a quarter of the population perished and the city was forcibly evacuated. Put aside at least half a day to visit the Museum of Genocide at Tuol Sleng Prison and the Killing Fields outside the city. For a cheerful antidote, visit the colourful Royal Palaces, join early morning aerobics in the park, marvel at the good-natured traffic mayhem and visit craft shops and markets – great for homewares such as silk and basketry. Khmer food is light, fragrant and cheap, and for a cocktail don't miss happy hour at the Foreign Correspondents' Club.

Getting there

Several Asian carriers, including budget airline Air Asia (www.airasia.com), fly from London to Phnom Penh via Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur; you can also go via Hong Kong with British Airways and a local carrier such as Dragon Air. The total journey time, excluding transit, is about 15 hours. Phnom Penh airport is 30 minutes from the centre; most hotels pick you up. Buses from Siem Reap (for the Angkor temples) take six hours; the Mekong Express ($11) is a good option, with a lavatory on board, drinks and snacks included and a halfway stop. You can also travel by boat (six hours; $35) from Siem Reap. You can walk safely in Phnom Penh by day, but take tuk-tuks after dark ($2).