The Grand didn't have electricity until 1914 but these days all 200 rooms and nine suites couldn't be more hi-tech

LOCATION

On Jawaharlal Nehru Road, a stone's throw from the 100-year-old New Market and Calcutta's famous Maidan park, so perfectly situated for sightseeing and exploring.

CHARACTER

Built on the site of the Theatre Royal, which burned down in 1911, the chalky white building is a classic example of Raj-era grandeur. The lobby sets the tone: old-money elegant, with black marble floors, teak and simple white paintwork topped off by an impressive chandelier.

ROOMS

The Grand didn't have electricity until 1914 but these days all 200 rooms and nine suites couldn't be more hi-tech. Rooms differ in size and décor (the latter could best be described as "colonial") and, charmingly, it's hotel policy to never give a returning guest a smaller or less luxurious room than they had on their last visit.

FOOD

Breakfast offers a global banquet, and is good and generous enough to keep hunger at bay until supper, though I still ate a pleasant lunch of pasta at the Terrace restaurant in the shady garden; there is also a sumptuously decorated Thai restaurant.

WE LIKE

The perfectly mixed early evening gin and tonic in the Chowringhee bar and the staff – charming, friendly and attentive while avoiding over-formality. For a large hotel the Grand has managed to avoid becoming impersonal. The pool is also a treat.

NOT SO KEEN

If I had to nit-pick it would be to say that my bathroom was a little small, but that's it.

Essentials

Greaves India (020 7487 9111; www.greavesindia.com) can tailor-make trips to Calcutta, offering three nights' b & b at the Oberoi Grand from £1,325 per person (until March 2010), based on two sharing a twin or double room; or from £1,275 per person staying at The Park.

The price includes flights to Delhi, Jet Airways internal flights to Calcutta, airport transfers and assistance in India.